Leaving Johannesburg on a muggy, warm January morning at 5.30 am, the excited anticipation of a road trip gripped me again as we set off South towards Bloemfontein/Port Elizabeth, our final destination for the day being Addo Elephant National Park. We were forced to take a detour outside Kroonstad due to the many roadworks on the N1, which caused a few tense moments as we had not filled up with petrol before leaving. The little town of Theunissen provided a surprisingly clean and comprehensive rest stop but we didn't have to stop for food as I had prepared some padkos for the 9 hour plus journey ahead of us.
We arrived at Addo late in the afternoon, and of course the first thing we did (after opening the wine) was light the fire for a lekker braai. Sanparks (South African National Parks) continues to impress me and the accommodation was neat, clean, well equipped (even though I always take my own corkscrew just in case).
At sunrise (06h15) next morning we took off on our game drive and saw plenty of plains game, Kudu, Warthog, Zebra
but after two hours driving around, we had not seen the elephants. We stopped at Jack's picnic spot for some breakfast. There is a sightings map there and whilst studying it I chatted to a fellow traveller who told me to go to Hapoor Dam at around noon as that is when the elephants congregate for their midday refreshments! It was only 9 am, but as we were so close to the Dam we decided to go and have a look - there were about 300 elephants gathered there and we had a lovely hour watching and photographing ellies of all sizes. It was wonderful to see their interactions, both with each other and with the many warthog families dodging in and out of the elephants' legs to get to the grass and the water. The grass here is very dry and brown, and there are far more lush areas for the warthogs to graze, but we could only think that the grass is nutritious because of the large amount of dung fertilizer.
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| Big and small |
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| Wallowing Warthogs |
After such a successful game drive, we spent the rest of the day pretty much sleeping, reading, resting before getting the fire ready for another braai and sleep by 8pm. During the night there was a very welcome rain storm - the drought seems to have finally broken in South Africa.
The next morning as we were checking out of the park, four bus loads of tourists arrived. It is always nice to see tourists visiting our beautiful country, and even more exciting that our National Parks are being supported.
Past Port Elizabeth (very very dirty - we really need to do something about the litter around our cities and towns) we meandered along the coast, past Jeffreys Bay and through some beautiful countryside to Storms River Mouth Rest Camp. Part of the Tsitsikamma National Park, this camp sits right on the rocks at the mouth of the Storms River. Turns out I had booked the "Honeymoon Suite" (number 17) and it was wonderful. Views from all rooms, even the bathroom! Waves crashing on the rocks just a few metres from our patio. It was rather windy being so close to the sea, so braaing was a challenge, but Sanparks have thought of that and the braai was enclosed in a circular structure with a piece cut out at the front so you could look at the sea while cooking.
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| Unit Number 17 |
Whilst having our lunch of fish and chips and some local Brampton Chardonnay at the Cattle Baron Restaurant, we enquired about the walk we had researched which forms the first part of the Otter Trail. The lady in the office told us it is VERY tough, and she obviously didn't think we were up to it. She said if we could make it to the lookout point it would be impressive, so, challenge accepted, we took off after lunch, across the suspension bridge, and upwards, upwards, upwards to the said lookout point.
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| The suspension bridge |
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| The camp and restaurant from the top of the hill |
Muggy weather and the chardonnay made it rather more difficult but we made it and the rewards were plentiful. It took us just over an hour - ALL uphill. Back down for shower and yet another braai (my years of vegetarianism are officially over!) We were rewarded at the end of our day with a spectacular sunset.
And the next morning we awoke to an equally beautiful sunrise with crystal clear views.
We went to enquire about the boat trip into the Storms River only to be told the boat had gone for a service! The baboons were having a feast from the dustbins around the restaurant, tipping them over and opening the discarded packets for chips and burgers, and were oblivious to the tourists who were trying to chase them off but as soon as the Parks officials came along the baboons scattered. Bins with lids required here I think!
We drove the short distance to the car park at the beginning of the Otter Trail. Well, we had made it to the lookout point so this should be a breeze! Undeterred by the sign:
we set off along a lovely flat path through the trees - how hard could this be? After a few short minutes the path gave way to a rocky shoreline, and the only trail was over the boulders following the yellow painted arrows showing the way. This is a very, very tough walk. However, we did it, and the 6 km round trip took us just less than the allotted 3.5 hours, including a stop at the waterfall to take photographs and have a rest.
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| The "path" |
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| Beautiful scenery |
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| The destination |
After a walk like that, all we were good for the rest of the day was having a well deserved glass of wine with lunch and a long rest in the afternoon. We had booked at the Cattle Baron for dinner, about an 800m walk from our unit. But the wind was so fierce our attempt at walking along the road was thwarted and we went back to get the car. It was actually quite chilly, first time I can remember having to wear a jersey for months!
We woke to yet another glorious morning, the wind having died down completely during the night and we set off again for the next leg - towards Knsyna and our beloved Brenton on Sea. This was where we spent our first holiday as a married couple some 28 years ago and has been a favourite of ours ever since. We stopped at the East Head Cafe for breakfast and had to wait 20 minutes for a table. Again, good to see so many people visiting this lovely town. This restaurant is at the Knysna heads and the view from the tables is spectacular, especially on a day where the blueness of the sky and the water are so vivid. Brenton is about 9 kms outside Knysna and there is a particular viewpoint where we just cannot resist getting out every time and looking over the vast Knysna lagoon.
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| Viewpoint over the lagoon |
Driving into Brenton on Sea, the view all along the coast to Buffalo Bay as you round the corner and drive down the hill still takes my breath away.
We sat on the deck of Brenton Haven and ordered Champagne and Pizza. We always feel the need to celebrate being back here. We managed to get an early check in and had booked apartment number 7. Once I got over the fact that it was right at the top of the hotel, up three long flights of stairs (my legs were struggling from the walk yesterday!) we realized that we had made a great choice. Views across to Buffalo Bay from all three balconies.
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| The view to Buffalo Bay from Brenton Haven Apartments |
Quickly changing into beach wear we did the walk along the beach to Buffalo Bay - 11 km round trip. No mean feat considering my aching legs from yesterday, but at least it is flat. We must have done this walk 15 times at least over the years and never tire of it. This time the wind was quite fierce, and the water very very cold - only our toes got wet this time.
We had booked at the restaurant for our dinner and had asked for the table in the corner with the best view of the sunset. Once we saw our unit, we cancelled the booking and had dinner on our own private deck with an even better, uninterupted view.
Another lovely nights sleep with the only noise being the crashing waves, and we had a quick cappuccino at the hotel's deli before setting off for George for a business meeting and to fix the windscreen chip which we had acquired less than 4 hours after leaving Joburg. Checked into our accommodation in Wilderness, which after SanParks and Brenton was a little disappointing but was right on the beach and a self contained cottage so all was not lost. It was comfortable enough and very close to the restaurants which were just across the main road so no worries about having wine with dinner. Three days of walking, body boarding, meeting up with good friends and having some amazing meals - how difficult can it be! The weather was a little strange for this time of year, most mornings there was a dense fog over the sea and the water was very very cold. But as soon as the fog cleared the sun came out and the days were long, relaxing and warm. We took a drive one morning up to Hoekwil, a very quaint little village with stunning views. We went along to Sedgefield one day in an attempt to find some warmer water, but the whole coast seems to have been affected by this year's bizarre weather patterns.
On the day we left Wilderness, hubby unfortunately had a bad case of food poisoning. We took the N9 to Oudtshoorn and now it was decision time whether to stick to our original plan to get to Prince Albert over the Swartberg Pass or to stick to the main (tarred) roads. Realising that we might not be in this area and have the chance again any time soon, we took the R328 past the Cango Caves (beautiful scenery) and then entered the Pass. It was the right choice, despite every bump and bend making my fragile passenger turn decidedly green! The Pass is rough, rugged, narrow and difficult, but the scenery made it more than worthwhile.
The Swartberg Hotel in Prince Albert is absolutely delightful. We had a garden cottage which was away from the "main" road (it is very quiet here!) but nice and private so those who were not feeling well could have a rest. I walked around the town and then went to the hotel bar for a quiet glass of wine. I can imagine spending a couple of weeks in this sleepy little town, visiting the wine estates, fig farms, olive groves and spending more time in the quaint little shops selling locally made goods. Prince Albert is almost self sufficient even getting the town's water from a nearby mountain spring. Home grown, home made produce is the order of the day here. We both took an early evening walk later and made a note to come here again next year, spend more time, relax and explore a little more.
Next day, all better, we took the road to Graaff Reinet via Meiringspoort , De Rust, Willomore and then the N9 through Aberdeen. Meiringspoort is on the other side of the Swartberg Mountains to the Pass but is a national road and so far easier to drive. The temptation of course is to race through and miss the best parts but we stopped at the Waterfall and took the 10 minute or so walk up to take a look.
The newly refurbished Drostdy Hotel in Graaf Reinet was our last stop. The rooms are set in the gardens and we had a lovely upstairs unit right at the end. The hotel is very grand, lots of wooden floors, victorian baths. The library (below) is a place for quiet reflection. We took a walk to the Reinet museum, showing life as it was in the 1800s.
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| Drostdy Hotel Library |
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| The rooms |
We drove up to the Valley of Desolation just before sunset - unfortunately the clouds were moving in so the sunset was hidden, but visibility across the valley was very good. Again we encountered lots of tourist groups, mainly European. We had booked at Polka Restaurant for dinner, and thank goodness we did. It was packed. We had a lovely outside table and finally I got my Karoo lamb, complete with mash and gravy. Delicious. Slept that night in the most comfortable bed I have ever encountered, and I have slept in quite a few!
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| Valley of Desolation |
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