Travelling Shots: THE CAPE FLORAL KINGDOM AT ITS FINEST

In August 2017 we did a long road trip from Joburg to the Cape via the N7 from Springbok all the way down towards Cape Town in the hope of seeing the Namaqualand Daisies in all their glory. Unfortunately there had been very little rain that year and the daisies were pretty pathetic to be honest. So this year, after some really good winter rains, we took off again, this time from the Garden Route so easier logistically, and this time also we just aimed for the West Coast National Park as we could be sure there would be a good display there at least. We took Route 62 and were rewarded handsomely as the flowers were blooming all the way from Oudtshoorn, through to the park.

First stop was the Cango Caves. The drive through the pass to the caves is beautiful. There are tours of the caves every hour on the hour, but there does not seem to be a limit as to how many people they take. And those people seem incapable of following the guide's instructions not to hug the stallactites. In fact there is one chamber where tours are no longer allowed to go as tourists have caused such extensive damage.

Well worth a visit.

Next on to Calitzdorp and in the spirit of taking the road less travelled we took the R328 which is a dirt road which runs alongside the Swartberg mountains. Orchards of Apricot and Peach trees, which are used to make port, a speciality of the region, together with plenty of yellow, pink, purple flowers and tall orange aloes. For long periods we didn't speak or play music in the car as we just soaked up the surroundings.

Spent the night at the Queen of Calitzdorp, opposite Boplaas Vineyard, which provided a stunning view. Walked to Zampni restaurant for dinner. Rather quirky, and houses the "smallest bar on Route 62" which is indeed very small! Delicious lamb chops and Boplaas merlot to end a very busy, enjoyable day. The walk home was rather treachorous as we realised there is NO street lighting and the pavements are very uneven and the roads not much better.

Next day we aimed for the delightfully quirky town of Barrydale, stopping briefly at Ronnies Sex Shop which gets a lot of hype but is supremely disappointing. Couldn't even get a cup of coffee there as one poor young lady was trying to cook breakfast for a group of people and no one was helping. We instead had brunch at a fabulous pub in Barrydale itself.

I bought some second hand books from the House of Books which is literally an old house crammed with previously loved

books, each room of the house dedicated to different subjects, so very well organised. I could have spent hours here but had to be content with a first edition which was an incredible find and a couple of novels. All for the princely sum of R110!

Unfortunately our pre booked accommodation was awful, and violates so many safety codes I can't even begin. We had dinner at the Karoo Art Hotel which is a very smart establishment and I would recommend to anyone to stay here.

Next morning the weather turned on its heels and we ran to the car through the rain and gale force winds. We were both full of flu which didn't help, I even think it was a mild form of Covid. Anyway we stopped at a chemist in Montagu to stock up with muti. Found Bergsig Wine Estate on the map between Worcester and Tulbagh, and we quite frankly needed a break from driving in the rain, so we called in there for lunch. It was so warm and welcoming in there we bought a bottle of their prize winning Port!

Our next booked accommodation was Rijks Wine Estate in Tulbagh. Very very pretty setting, and certainly a step up from last night. Lovely modern, WARM, room. No wine tasting on Mondays which is a pity but probably just as well as we were not 100 percent well. Dinner by the fire in the dining room was delicate and tasty. Only two wines were available, Chenin Blanc or Pinotage so we chose the 2019 Pinotage and promptly decided to take a case home with us. An early night ensued - only those who have been to the Cape in the winter will understand how cold it can actually get - but in the morning the sky started to clear and the light was amazing. The gardens at this tiny vineyard are obviously well tended and full of indigenous flora. One of the gardeners saw us admiring the plants and gave us a bag full of succulents for our garden. Having still over a week of travelling left we put water in the bag and put it under the seat to hope for the best. (When we got home we planted some in our garden and they are still doing really well!)

Passed through Darling to get petrol and supplies and were amazed by the amount of wild Arum Lilies growing alongside the roads. Didn't take any photos though as by now it was really cold and raining. Joannes Cottage in the West Coast National Park is situated on the Langebaan Lagoon and the view from the braai in the evenings with the red light on the water is beautiful. We couldn't appreciate it that night as we had a bowl of soup and went to bed, but the next morning the sunrise didn't disappoint.

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We were first at the gate to the Posberg section of the park which is closed for most of the year, only opening for the few weeks in August and September when the flowers are in bloom. In fact there was no need to go so early as the flowers really only open up when the sun hits them at around 9.30am. And then the spectacle begins!

Plenty of wildlife in the park too

Got back to the restaurant for a late lunch and heard that there were greater and lesser flamingos on the lagoon.

All standing on one leg in the cold water!

A kestrel all puffed up against the cold.

Grey Tit collecting material for its nest

Drove to a windy and raining Hermanus. But this was the night we thrashed NZ 35-7 at rugby so all was not lost.

Woke to crisp sunny morning, sun glistening on the sea. Took the R44 coastal road, even saw a whale when we stopped for coffee at De Kelders, Called in at Pearly Beach - what a treasure. Flowers, rocks, sea, sun, very picturesque. Tried to find Plaatjieskraal Spookdorp, an abandoned fishing village, but Google maps kept adding another km here and there and the terrain was getting very hectic so we gave up just before the map actually took us into the sea!

Pearly Beach

Along the dirt road towards Struisbaai, there were acres and acres of pink proteas growing wild. The best view would have been from above but we had to settle for seeing them from the rather good dirt road.

Struisbaai is a surprisingly big village and sprawls towards L'Aghulas which was our next destination to walk to the Southern Tip of Africa.

On entering the lighthouse with the intention of climbing to the top, there is a warning that you have to climb ladders to get there, the first three were relatively easy but the last two were very narrow and rickety so I didn't trust myself to go any further. Hubby made it though and enjoyed the view from the top.

We took a walk along the coastal paths

And finally to the southern most tip of Africa where the two oceans meet.

Then pizza and bed!

Next day our destination was De Hoop nature reserve, via Bredasdorp where we filled up with petrol and bought supplies for a braai. Not a very attractive town, but very clean and tidy with no litter - something we always appreciate.

Lots of blue cranes and canola fields on the way so it took rather a long time with all the photo stops!

The main purpose of going to De Hoop, apart from just exploring this beautiful park, was to see whales. From the deck of the restaurant at Koppie Aleen we were certainly not disappointed. It was estimated that there were about 30 whales and calves in the bay that day. Of course every time you point your lens at a particular whale, it is another one that puts on a show. But it was very enjoyable to while away a couple of hours just watching them.