OUR BELOVED KGALAGADI

So lots of planning is involved in a trip to the Kgalagadi, not least of which was an early morning queue at the Sanparks offices 11 months before we wanted to travel - the first person in the queue had been there since 3am so at 6am I was about 40th in line.  Sadly that meant I still didn't get into Grootkolk but got bookings at some of the smaller camps so the 11 month wait began.

The N14 which is the more direct route can be a problematic road - one lane, lots of trucks etc, so this time we drove the N1 to Bloemfontein, across on the N8 to Kimberley and on to Upington and Twee Rivieren.  We overnighted at Koekais Guest Farm near Griekwastad, and what a good choice that turned out to be.  It's 17kms off the main N8, and there are warnings to watch for Kudu running across the road in front of you (we had a steenbok run in front of us) but well worth it.  A massive farmhouse all to ourselves, fully equipped with everything you could possibly need, a boma and braai area that could house a party of 50, and most importantly after a long tiring drive, a very comfortable bed.  The only sound was birdsong and we woke completely refreshed and ready for the second half of our journey.

Koekais Guest Farm

Twee Rivieren Chalets

Next day Griekwastad to Twee Rivieren via Upington.  Good roads, beautiful scenery, and NO TRAFFIC!    Arrived to a baking hot Twee Rivieren at 2pm in time for a siesta, nice braai and good nights sleep. But not before filling up with petrol and letting the tyres down to 160 to cope with the corrugation and sand of the inner roads of the park.  I was a little horrified to find that the petrol attendant no longer adjusts the tyre pressure for you - and as I had left hubby asleep in the chalet it was up to me - there's always a first time for everything. I didn't have my glasses so it was a bit difficult to see the tiny gauge but I was doing really well until I put the cap on the last tyre and could hear air gushing out.  After a brief moment of panic I realised it was the car next to me!





Every day we have our routine: prepare the next days breakfast while the braai coals are heating up for the evening meal, open the wine, have a good dinner, early night, sleep like logs, wake early and pack up the car (if moving camps) or just pack the breakfast and a flask of coffee.  Stop at one of the (unfenced) picnic sites around 9am for breakfast and then get back to camp - or to the new camp around 3pm and repeat the process again.  A couple of mornings this time, because we had more days in the park, and because we are not getting any younger and need our sleep, we didn't go out so early.

From TR we took the road towards Nossob as our second night was in Urikaruus which is not so far away.  There are only two roads in the park (apart from the two dune roads connecting the two sides of the park). Both roads run alongside the dry river beds of the Auob and the Nossob rivers.  Every few kilometres there are boreholes which provide much needed water for the animals.  If you have the patience it is a good idea to pick a watering hole and park for an hour or two with your coffee and wait to see what turns up.

A family of Suricates on high alert in the early morning sun

We cut across the short dune road back to the Auob river side for our stay at Urikaruus where I was lucky enough to get two nights.

 Urikaruus Camp - four chalets made of wrought iron
on two levels,  All the chalets overlook the very busy
watering hole and are joined by wooden walkways.  The camp is not fenced.

These yellow billed hornbills were one of the reasons we had to keep the door to the kitchen closed at Urikaruus.  They woke us up a couple of times with their tap tap tapping on the window.









There were two juvenile cheetah hanging around the (unfenced) camp and on our morning drive we spotted them again staring intently at a small herd of Springbok. 

Ultimately they decided it was far too hot and slumped down in the shade so we moved on towards Twee Rivieren to buy more water to cope with the late 38 degree temperatures.  A tawny eagle was feasting on a cape cobra, and trying to protect its prize from a competitor.

A lovely family of Ostriches entertained us for a while at the side of the road.  The chicks are so cute.

On the way back from TR for our two nights at Kieliekrankie,  we found this juvenile martial eagle snacking on what looked like one of the ostrich chicks we had seen earlier.

At Kieliekrankie we had unit number 4 right at the end so complete privacy.  We could both see the sunrise and sunset from our deck overlooking the dunes and the watering hole.

Kieliekrankie sunrise

Kieliekrankie sunset and braai

The next days drive north we went as far as 13th borehole, which never fails to entice some game to its sweet water.  There was a flock of redheaded finches which swoop down in a wave of perfectly coordinated motion to sip the water and the swoop back up into a nearby tree, over and over again.

 One of them gives some kind of signal and they all take off, fascinating to watch.  Namaqua doves were also refreshing themselves in and around the borehole, but in a rather more relaxed fashion.  All of a sudden a lanner falcon that had been patiently watching from the next tree swooped in and took one of the finches.  It all happened so quickly the only evidence that anything had happened were the two tiny feathers which floated through my window into the car!

Namaqua Doves

Springbok at 13th borehole

Rooibrak borehole the two cheetah from yesterday were still in the same place, still patiently observing the springbok across the road.  A rather large male springbok separated from the herd and crossed the road toward the cheetah and the inevitable happened - pandemonium broke out and the springbok met its fate just in front of us.   By the time they took it down they were a bit far away on the open plain and were clearly exhausted.  One retired into the shade and the other tried to move the carcass by itself but it was just too heavy.

Moving on from Kieliekrankie we were packing up the car at 6.30 am when the camp manager pointed out a lioness approaching across the dunes.  When it was clear that she was heading straight for us we went back inside our chalet until it was obvious she was settling down next to the watering hole for a while.

Next stop Mata Mata where we had a lovely big "river front" chalet overlooking one of the camps watering holes.

This is where we cooked our dinner at Mata Mata

An incredibly hot evening was followed by some early rains that night.  The lightning was scarily fierce and we made an exit strategy in case of floodwaters coming down!  These rivers have not flowed in years so this was pretty unlikely, but that's how vulnerable we felt.

Some of the bird life

Secretary Bird

Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk

Kori Bustard

Tawny eagle

Ostriches were everywhere!

Day drive from Mata Mata resulted in a cheetah and her two adolescent cubs playing by the side of the road.

There was a half hearted attempt to chase a herd of springbok up the hill and when they came down one sibling crouched low so he could not be seen and when his brother who couldn't seem to spot him came close he sprang to action and a playful brawl ensued.  Cheetahs have a sense of humour.





The rain brought out the tortoises

As we returned past Craig Lockhart borehole there was only one vehicle under the tree where the leopard had been sleepy and inactive yesterday.  We pulled in anyway and were lucky enough to see her returning to feast some more on her kill.

The dune roads between the two riverbeds never really yields many sightings apart from the odd gemsbok but the White-Quilled Korhaans were in fine form and good voice.

And jackals are everywhere!

From Nossob we drove north and decided to try and make it all the way to Unions End.  In 5 hours of driving we saw one other vehicle - and a few scattered game.

Wildebeest

Gemsbok

These Ground Agama were jousting over territory.  They spent a long time sizing each other up and when they went on the attack they were so quick I could not get a decent action photo!









Unions End is the point at which Botswana, Namibia and South Africa meet.




On the way from Nossob to Dikbaardskolk there was what looked like a log across the road but luckily we swerved to avoid it.  Turned out to be two puff adders.

We were sorry to have disturbed them but hopefully they carried on where they left off when they retreated into the grass.

About 50 metres from the picnic site this one eyed lion was taking a drink.  Having our morning coffee out of our cars in such close proximity is one of the reasons we love this park so much.  We certainly made sure to stay close to the car and keep our eyes peeled in his direction though!

At Twee Rivieren on our last night we took a Sanparks Sunset Drive.  The three main camps all do game drives and after dark is when this park comes alive.  We even saw a pole cat, a first for us, but I wasn't quick enough to get a photograph.

Porcupine

Scrub Hare

African Wild Cat - walking away unfortunately

Bat Eared Fox

Already planning our next trip in 2020.